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Arrived in Seville
The transition from Yorkshire to Seville was a smooth one. A 1 1/2 hour train ride across the scenic Pennine moors took us directly to Manchester Airport - and with our check in done on-line, we left our luggage at the baggage drop-off and within a couple of hours we were boarding the plane for a journey of under 3 hours to Seville. A quick comment here for anyone who may worry about travelling on a “budget airline.” There may be some legitimate concerns and problems, but for us this flight was a an example of “when things go right.” All seats, bags, boarding priorities are pre-paid as “add-ons” to the quoted price - this particular airline is tough on large bags in the cabin - but it works. Priority-boarding travellers get first go at the overhead bins (for a small fee), the remaining passengers get their overly large carry-ons stowed in the hold for free (to be picked up at the baggage carousel on landing), and as a result, boarding is fast and the cabin is clear of clutter. Our plane left a little early and arrived a little early too.....maybe luck?! It’s true that the cheap fare can add up quickly with all the added extras, and any food or drink bought on board costs more than usual (not even a free water!) - but it’s still a cheap flight and with a cheery cabin crew - hard to beat!
And so....we were in Seville! A bus from the airport to the city runs every 30 minutes - it cost us €4 each - and deposited us at the train station, which we’d identified as the closest stop to our rented apartment 1km away - an easy walk when travelling light. Our host José met us at the apartment and we were quickly settled in for our first night in Seville.
The apartment that will be our home for the next 2 weeks is in the area of El Fontanal - approximately 30 mins walk to the old city centre - but only 10 mins walk to the main ring-road which gives access to all the hustle and bustle of city life......however there’s plenty of life along these suburban streets! We’re in an area of apartments and shops where there’s at least 1 café/bar every block. With a pretty spacious living/dining area, a bedroom, bathroom and kitchen, this 2nd floor apartment is very modern, clean and well-equipped. A corner unit, we have a balcony that wraps all around the apartment - a great place to sit any time of day....we even have some shade from one of the many orange trees that line the streets. Our first night was spent on the balcony watching the bar across the street - a social gathering place for locals. With a hearty tapas plate, which we hastily put together from a quick trip to the local supermarket (also very close to us) and a cold drink, it was a good end to our travel day and our first night in Seville.....and noise from the bar? We went to bed at midnight and the air conditioner was the only noise that we heard!
The next morning we were out looking for breakfast, and a after checking out a few cafés, we settled on El Abuelo, a modern corner café close to the local Lidl supermarket, where we intended to buy our supplies. This café on a bustling corner turned out to be a lucky find - we shared 2 large toasted crusty buns (one with lots of bacon and the other with thick slabs of cheese) + a couple of strong coffees that the waiter topped up with hot steamed milk......all for a total price of €6 ($9 CAD) - a yummy start to our day. We shopped and then unpacked before setting out in the late afternoon to see a monastery close by - it was closed - but no worries, we enjoyed investigating the narrow streets of the area surrounding it, before settling down for an evening drink outside at Los Claveles - an attractive bar/restaurant in the area.......and......we only got lost once on the way home!
The following day we found our way down to the old city centre - reached by walking through narrow winding streets that are not always marked on any map. We entered the Plaza del Salvador, a good venue for a coffee break - it also gave us a chance to pin-point our location, admire our surroundings and take a look at the second most important church in Seville. We paid the entrance fee of €4 each (for pensioners) and took advantage of the 2 for 1 price of an audio tour. The Iglesia collegial del Divino Salvador is a magnificent, recently restored church, dating back to the late 17th-early 18th century. It features guided chapels and is filled with Christian art - it has a total of 14 alters. There’s a history here of Roman and Islamic elements, which can be seen from the remains of earlier buildings on the site where the church now stands. The ceiling vaults, the dome, the carvings and all the artwork is outstanding.
Gold and silver cover huge alters, with Baroque angels perched high above them. The Virgin Mary is revered throughout the church, and the agony of Christ on the cross is depicted in startling realism. Two exceptional pulpits stand on either side of the main alter - carved from pink and white marble, they have huge scallop shells placed above them to increase the volume of any voice preaching there - the shells are carved from the same marble.
While viewing the church we also visited the on-site museum, which has a sacramental chapel built on top of the previous mosque’s gallery area. While there we saw neoclassical wooden choir stalls from the 18th century, carved in wood - their backs display grotesque masks. The museum also houses rare church vestments of gold and silver thread, and illuminated books from the early 17th century. A carved wooden statue, dating from of 1609, can also be seen in this museum area - it shows the resurrected Christ giving a blessing as he rises up above both his coffin and the Roman soldiers below.
We exited the church feeling somewhat overwhelmed with its art treasures and its splendour. We returned to a seat outside the same Café Europa where we’d enjoyed our morning coffee - this time lingering over a cold beer and a glass of an even colder bone-dry rosé. In the late afternoon the heat had settled on the city and the shops were all closed for siesta time. Strolling home through the quiet, peaceful alleyways we look forward to spending a full 2 weeks in Seville - we plan to savour every minute at a leisurely pace.....but tomorrow we plan to be up and out early - we’ve tracked down the meeting spot for a free walking tour of the city!
- comments
Marjoe Sounds like a dream place for me, Glynis -- and Glyn's worst nightmare. Enjoy the history and culture , You got another gem of a place to stay!
Glynis Thanks Marjie.....wish you were here to share it with us....you would help us a lot with the history too! Loving Seville....and it is hot - as expected x g
Phil & Marie Sounds a great city, will put it onto our places to visit. Enjoy!
Glynis You and Marie would love it, Phil.....a definite for your list! X g